Watering and Mowing Instructions for Tilling Renovation with Seed

Be sure to follow these instructions to get the best results from your Core/Slice Renovation Watering Instructions for the First 2-3 Weeks.

Erosion Control

Your service includes a mulch like product called Seed Aid.

• Seed Aid is made from recycled news paper that has been compressed. When watered, it will break open and cover the seed.
  • Take care when watering the new grass. Seed Aid can stick to the bottom of your shoes. Also bare soil may cause a bit of a muddy mess
    • It is a good idea to arrange your hose and sprinklers to cover the entire area so you avoid walking on the lawn until it is ready to be mown.
    • Use a nozzle and hand water edges by the drive and sidewalk
  • Curlex erosion blanket is also an option we offer at an additional charge. It will be recommended at the time of sale by your account manager.
  • You should begin watering your lawn as soon as possible after your renovation is complete.
    • The new seed will require daily watering for the next 2-3 weeks.
    • The top ¼”- ½” of soil should remain moist to ensure proper seed germination and seedling development.
    • Daily watering, twice to three times a day, for approximately 5-15 minutes per area is generally what your lawn will need. However, since every lawn is different, you will have to determine whether you are watering adequately.
  • Once you start watering, DO NOT STOP!
    • It is very important for the development of your new seed that the seed bed remain moist. If you allow the soil to dry out, you risk permanent damage to the new seedlings.
    • Do not over water. Applying too much water can lead to runoff and puddling. Apply only enough water so that the soil stays moist.
    • Make certain that water is getting to all areas of your lawn, regardless of the type of watering system you use. Many sprinklers easily miss corners and edges, and these areas are particularly vulnerable to drying out faster than the center portion of your lawn.
    • Areas near buildings dry out faster because of reflected heat. For these reasons, these areas will require special attention from you when watering. Water them by hand if necessary.
    • Runoff may occur on some soils and sloped areas before the soil has been adequately moistened. To conserve water, prevent erosion, and ensure adequate soak-in, turn off the water when runoff begins to occur. Wait 30 minutes to an hour, and then restart the watering on that area. Repeat this process, as necessary, until the soil is adequately moistened.

After 4-6 Weeks

Your new seed should be germinating well, and the new seedlings should be establishing their initial roots within 2-3 weeks.

• Not all areas of the lawn will fill in at the same rate. Some areas will fill in faster than others. Factors such as temperature, rainfall, sun, shade, soil composition, and contour will affect the rate at which your lawn thickens. If some areas seem to be sluggish, concentrate some additional watering in these areas.
• You can gradually back off the frequency as the lawn grows
  • Begin to back off and water less frequently but for longer periods. Be careful not to overwater

Continued Long Term Maintenance

Your new lawn will require special care throughout the rest of the growing season and into the next to completely fill in.

• Continue watering until it gets too cold, usually a week or two before the first frost.
  • Most lawns will do well with 1 inch of water per week. This can be applied by watering 2 to 3 times a week, depending on natural precipitation. Deep watering is needed so that the underlying soil stays wet 3-4 inches down. Infrequent and deep watering will encourage the grass plants to establish their roots deeper in the soil. Deeply rooted grasses are better able to survive heat and drought stress because it can tap into subsurface moisture. During the rest of the growing season, deep and infrequent watering will replenish the “soil water bank” your new turf will need to survive.

When to Start Mowing

You will need to begin a regular mowing regimen once the lawn has grown up to 4”. This will usually occur after 3-5 weeks.

• Keep in mind that not all the grass plants will grow at the same speed. Some areas may take 4-5 weeks while others will only take 2-3 weeks. You only need to mow the areas that have grown to 4”. Be sure not to use heavy garden equipment for at least the first four or five cuts. You will cause irreparable damage to the new seedlings, especially on slopes where tractor tires can rip the grass out of the ground and cause major problems with soil compaction.
  • For best results, use a light push mower until you are sure a garden tractor will not cause damage.
• Cool season grasses (the type we planted in your lawn today) should be mowed at 3-3½ inches.
  • Use a ruler to measure the height, as mower settings vary greatly and do not always reflect actual height of the grass in inches. Mowing new turf too close can cause stress, especially during warm fall days. The most important rule of thumb to remember when mowing is to mow often enough so as never to remove more than one third (1/3) of the leaf area of the grass. For example, if you are mowing your tall fescue lawn at 3 inches, then you should mow before the lawn grows any taller than 4 ½ inches.
  • Maintain a sharp mower blade. A dull blade can cause drought stress symptoms and disease problems. Mowing regularly allows you to leave the clippings down. Clippings will decompose and supply free fertilizer and recycle moisture in the process.
    • A mulching mower that cuts the clippings up finely is best. Only remove clippings if your lawn has grown excessively high or if your specialist has recommended doing so in your note.

Leaf Removal

• When removing leaves, it is best to use a leaf blower rather than a rake. If a rake is all you have, use a flexible metal grass rake as opposed to a plastic grass rake.
  • The metal rake is more flexible and will do less damage to the turf.
• Wet leaves can be especially tough, so remove leaves on a regular basis before they settle to the soil surface and start to damage your turf.
• Be careful when using blowers, as these can cause damage if not used properly.
• When removing limbs and twigs, it is best to pick these up by hand.

The bottom line is, be aware of what you are doing to your new turf.

If you still have questions or concerns, feel free to contact us via our contact form, or call our office at 301-870-3411.